Bearings are the smallest parts on a longboard and the most misunderstood. They are sold on big numbers and bigger promises, and most of what is printed on the box does not matter very much.
Here is the short answer. The best longboard bearings are skate bearings from a known maker, with removable shields so you can clean them. How well you look after them matters more than how much you pay. A cheap bearing that is clean and oiled will out-roll an expensive one that is full of grit.
This guide explains what bearings do, what the ABEC number really means, and which features are worth paying for. It shows you how to fit and clean them, and suggests three sets.
Quick answer
Clean beats expensive
Choose a serviceable skate bearing from a known maker. Then keep it dry and clean. That is most of what there is to know.
- π© Standard 608 size
- π¦ Removable shields
- π§± Spacers help
- π« Ignore the ABEC number
What do bearings do on a longboard?
A bearing is a ring of small steel balls held between two metal rings. It sits inside the wheel and lets it spin freely around the axle. Each wheel has two bearings, one on each side, so a longboard has eight.
A good bearing lets the wheel roll with very little resistance. A dirty or damaged one makes the wheel slow, noisy or rough.
| Part | What it does |
|---|---|
| Outer ring | Presses into the wheel |
| Inner ring | Sits on the axle |
| Balls | Roll between the two rings |
| Retainer | A cage that keeps the balls evenly spaced |
| Shield | A cover that keeps dirt out and lubricant in |
| Lubricant | Oil or grease that lets the balls roll smoothly |
π One size fits all
Skateboard and longboard bearings are a standard size, known as 608. They fit an 8 mm axle and are 22 mm across. Any skate bearing fits any standard skate wheel and truck.
What actually matters when choosing bearings?
Here are the features of a bearing, ranked by how much difference they make to an ordinary rider.
| Feature | How much it matters | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Cleanliness and lubrication | A great deal | Keep them dry, clean them when gritty |
| Shields | A lot | Removable rubber shields, so you can clean them |
| Made for skating | A lot | A skate brand, not generic industrial bearings |
| Spacers | Quite a lot | Use them, or buy bearings with them built in |
| Steel or ceramic | A little | Steel is fine for almost everyone |
| ABEC number | Very little | Ignore it |
What does ABEC mean, and why can you ignore it?
ABEC is a scale that grades how precisely a bearing is made. The scale runs 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. A higher number means tighter tolerances.
It sounds as if a higher number must be better. For a skateboard, it mostly is not. Here is why.
- It was designed for machines. The scale matters for equipment spinning at tens of thousands of revolutions per minute. A longboard wheel turns far more slowly than that, even at high speed.
- It measures the wrong things for skating. ABEC covers dimensions and tolerances. It says nothing about how a bearing copes with sideways loads, impacts and dirt, which are what a skate bearing actually has to deal with.
- It is not always checked. A number on a budget listing is a claim, not a certificate.
Some of the best-known skate bearing makers do not use the scale. They build to their own standards, designed around skating. One of the listings we checked describes its bearings as made to the makerβs own Skate Rated specification for exactly this reason.
There is also a telling pattern in complete boards. We found budget longboards advertising ABEC 9 and even ABEC 11, while some far more expensive boards listed ABEC 5. The number is marketing. Judge a bearing by who made it and whether you can service it.
β οΈ There is no ABEC 11
The official scale stops at 9. Any bearing sold as ABEC 11 is using the number as a brand name, not a rating.
The features that are worth understanding
Shields
The shield is the cover on the side of the bearing. There are two main kinds.
- Rubber shields are flexible and can be lifted out with a pin. That lets you clean and re-oil the bearing. This is what you want.
- Metal shields are usually fixed in place. They keep dirt out, but when dirt does get in, it is hard to get out again.
Many skate bearings have a shield on one side only. The open side faces inward, toward the middle of the wheel, where it is protected.
Lubricant: oil or grease
Bearings are lubricated with either thin oil or thicker grease.
| Factor | Oil | Grease |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Spins very freely straight away | Feels a little slower at first |
| How long it lasts | Shorter. Needs topping up more often | Longer. Stays put |
| Protection from dirt and water | Less | More |
| Best for | Riders who service their bearings | Low-maintenance cruising and commuting |
Neither is better in general. Oil suits riders who enjoy maintenance. Grease suits riders who would prefer to fit their bearings and forget about them.
Spacers and speed rings
A spacer is a small metal tube that sits on the axle between the two bearings in a wheel. Speed rings are thin washers that sit on either side of the wheel. Together they keep the bearings lined up and stop them being crushed when you tighten the axle nut.
They matter more than most people think. Without a spacer, the two bearings can sit slightly crooked, which wears them out and makes wheels chatter in hard turns. Some bearings have the spacer and speed rings built in, which means fewer small parts to lose.
Steel or ceramic
Most bearings use steel balls. Ceramic bearings use balls made of a very hard ceramic. Ceramic balls do not rust and are harder than steel. They also cost several times as much.
For most riders, the difference is hard to feel. Ceramic is worth considering if you ride in damp conditions often, because rust is what kills most steel bearings. Otherwise, good steel bearings are all you need.
Our picks: 3 sets of longboard bearings
These three are all skate-specific bearings from established makers. Each is a set of eight, enough for one board.
π How we chose these
We picked these bearings by the specifications listed on Amazon and by how well they fit the job. We have not ride-tested them, and we do not show prices or star ratings because they change often. Specs were checked in October 2026, so confirm the details on the product page before you buy. LongboardHub earns from qualifying purchases as an Amazon Associate, at no extra cost to you. Read our affiliate disclosure.
π Best all-round bearing
Bones Reds Bearings (8 pack)
Best for: Most riders who want a reliable, easy-to-clean bearing at a fair price.
Bones Reds are one of the most common skate bearings. The listing says they are built to the makerβs own Skate Rated standard for clearances, tolerances, materials and lubricant.
- Pack 8 bearings
- Shield Single removable rubber shield
- Retainer Nylon
- Lubricant Speed Cream
- Rating Skate Rated (the makerβs own standard)
β Why it works
- The removable rubber shield makes cleaning easy.
- They arrive pre-lubricated.
- Eight bearings cover all four wheels.
β οΈ Keep in mind
- Spacers and speed rings are not built in.
- Like all steel bearings, they rust if ridden in the wet and left dirty.
Buy from Amazon Price and stock are shown on Amazon. Specs are from the Amazon listing, checked October 2026.
π§± Best for easy fitting
Zealous Bearings (8 pack, steel)
Best for: Riders who want spacers and speed rings built in.
Zealous bearings have the spacer and speed rings built into each bearing, so there are no small loose parts to lose when you change wheels.
- Pack 8 bearings
- Spacers Built in
- Speed rings Built in
- Seals Rubber
- Lubricant Nanoceramic grease
- Axle fit 8 mm
β Why it works
- Built-in spacers and speed rings make wheel changes simpler.
- Rubber seals help keep dirt out.
- They come lubricated with grease rather than thin oil.
β οΈ Keep in mind
- Grease-packed bearings can feel slow for the first few rides.
- Built-in spacers suit standard wheel cores.
Buy from Amazon Price and stock are shown on Amazon. Specs are from the Amazon listing, checked October 2026.
β Best step up
Bones Super Reds Bearings (8 pack)
Best for: Riders who want higher grade steel and finish.
A step up from standard Reds. The listing says Super Reds use higher quality steel races, better grade balls and a superior surface finish.
- Pack 8 bearings
- Steel Higher grade races and balls
- Shield Single removable rubber shield
- Retainer Nylon
- Lubricant Speed Cream
β Why it works
- Better steel and finish than standard Reds, according to the listing.
- The removable rubber shield makes cleaning easy.
- They arrive pre-lubricated.
β οΈ Keep in mind
- They cost more than standard Reds.
- Spacers and speed rings are not built in.
Buy from Amazon Price and stock are shown on Amazon. Specs are from the Amazon listing, checked October 2026.
| Product | Lubricant | Spacers | Best for | Amazon |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bones Reds | Speed Cream | Not built in | All-round use | View on Amazon |
| Zealous Steel | Grease | Built in | Low-fuss cruising | View on Amazon |
| Bones Super Reds | Speed Cream | Not built in | A smoother, quieter roll | View on Amazon |
Which one should you choose?
- You want a dependable standard: Bones Reds.
- You hate fiddling with small parts: Zealous, with the spacers built in.
- You want something a little better: Bones Super Reds.
How to fit new bearings
You need a skate tool or a spanner, and about fifteen minutes. The truck axle doubles as a bearing press.
- Remove the wheelUndo the axle nut and slide the wheel off. Keep the speed rings.
- Lever out the old bearingsSlide the wheel part-way onto the axle so only the first bearing is on it. Twist the wheel sideways and the bearing pops out. Flip the wheel and repeat.
- Press in the first new bearingPut a bearing on the axle with the shield facing outward. Push the wheel down over it firmly until the bearing sits flush.
- Add the spacerDrop the spacer into the wheel so it rests on the first bearing. Skip this if your bearings have spacers built in.
- Press in the second bearingPut the second bearing on the axle and push the other side of the wheel down onto it.
- Refit the wheelSpeed ring, wheel, speed ring, nut. Tighten until there is no side-to-side play, then back off a touch so the wheel spins freely.
π‘ Do not overtighten the axle nut
A nut that is too tight squeezes the bearings and slows the wheel. With spacers fitted you can tighten it more firmly, which is another reason to use them.
How to clean longboard bearings
Cleaning brings tired bearings back to life. Do it when the wheels sound gritty, stop spinning freely or have been ridden in the wet.
- Take the bearings outRemove the wheels and lever the bearings out as described above.
- Remove the shieldsUse a pin or a thin blade to lift the rubber shield from its inner edge. Go gently, so you do not bend it.
- Soak and shakePut the bearings in a small jar with a bearing cleaner or a suitable solvent, and shake. Follow the instructions and safety advice on the product, and work in a ventilated place.
- Dry them completelySpin them dry on a clean cloth or with compressed air. Any moisture left inside will cause rust.
- LubricateAdd one or two drops of skate bearing lubricant to each bearing. More is not better. Too much attracts dirt.
- Refit the shields and bearingsPress the shields back in, then fit the bearings to the wheels.
New or freshly cleaned bearings can feel a little tight for the first ride or two. That is normal. The lubricant needs a few miles to spread evenly, after which the wheels will spin more freely.
For a fuller walkthrough, see our maintenance guides.
What kills bearings
- Water. Rust is the number one cause of dead bearings. Avoid puddles and rain. If they get wet, clean and re-oil them soon.
- Sand and grit. Beach paths and dusty roads work fine particles inside.
- Overtightened axle nuts. They crush the bearing sideways.
- Hard impacts. Dropping off kerbs repeatedly can dent the tracks the balls run in.
- Neglect. A bearing run dry wears out quickly.
When to replace bearings
Bearings last a long time if they are looked after. Replace them when cleaning no longer helps. The signs are clear.
| Sign | Try this first | Replace if |
|---|---|---|
| Gritty or crunchy sound | Clean and re-oil | It is still rough afterwards |
| Wheel stops spinning quickly | Loosen the axle nut, then clean | It still will not spin freely |
| Visible rust | Clean thoroughly | The rust is inside, on the balls or tracks |
| Side-to-side wobble in the bearing itself | Check the axle nut and spacer | The bearing is loose in itself |
| A bearing that has come apart | Nothing | Always |
Real-life examples: which bearings would they choose?
The riders below are made-up examples, based on the kind of questions people often ask in longboarding groups and forums. They are not real people or reviews. See which one sounds most like you.
The budget board owner
Amy, six months on a budget complete
Amyβs wheels have started to sound rough and stop spinning quickly.
Good choice: cleaning the bearings she has first. If that does not fix it, a standard set of skate bearings with removable shields.
The low-maintenance commuter
Ben, rides to work daily
Ben wants to fit new bearings and not think about them for a long time.
Good choice: grease-lubricated bearings with built-in spacers. Fewer parts, and grease lasts longer between services.
The damp-climate rider
Cara, rides on roads that are often wet
Cara keeps losing bearings to rust.
Good choice: cleaning and re-oiling straight after wet rides, or trying ceramic bearings, which do not rust.
Common mistakes (and how to fix them)
β Buying on the ABEC number
It has almost nothing to do with how a board rolls.
β The fix: Buy a skate bearing from a known maker.
β Replacing bearings that only need cleaning
Most slow bearings are dirty, not worn out.
β The fix: Clean and re-oil them first.
β Leaving out the spacers
The bearings can sit crooked and wear quickly.
β The fix: Fit spacers, or use bearings with them built in.
β Using too much lubricant
Excess oil attracts dirt.
β The fix: One or two drops per bearing is enough.
β Riding through water
Wet steel bearings can start to rust quickly.
β The fix: Avoid the wet, and clean bearings promptly if they get soaked.
Key terms in plain English
Longboard listings use a lot of jargon. Here are the terms used in this guide, explained simply.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| ABEC | An industrial precision scale for bearings. A higher number says little about how a skateboard bearing performs. |
| Bearing spacers | Small metal tubes that sit between the two bearings in a wheel and keep them aligned. |
| Trucks | The two metal T-shaped parts under the deck. They hold the wheels and let the board turn when you lean. |
| Durometer | Wheel hardness, shown as a number and the letter A. Around 78A is soft and grippy. The mid 80s and above are firmer. |
| Complete | A board sold fully assembled, with deck, trucks, wheels and bearings ready to ride. |
| Bushings | The rubbery rings inside each truck. Softer ones let the board lean easily. Harder ones resist. |
| Wheel bite | When a wheel touches the deck in a hard turn and stops suddenly. Cutouts, wheel wells and risers prevent it. |
Frequently asked questions
What are the best bearings for a longboard?
The best longboard bearings are skate-specific bearings from a known maker, with removable rubber shields so they can be cleaned. Bones Reds are a common all-round choice, and Zealous bearings have spacers built in.
Does the ABEC rating matter for longboard bearings?
Very little. ABEC grades manufacturing precision for industrial use and does not measure how a bearing handles the sideways loads, impacts and dirt of skating. Some leading skate bearing makers do not use it at all.
How often should I clean my longboard bearings?
Clean them when the wheels sound gritty or stop spinning freely, and soon after any ride in the wet. For a regular rider that might be every few months.
Are ceramic bearings worth it for a longboard?
For most riders, no. Good steel bearings perform very well. Ceramic bearings do not rust, so they can be worth it if you often ride in damp conditions.
Do I need bearing spacers on a longboard?
They are strongly recommended. Spacers keep the two bearings in each wheel aligned and let you tighten the axle nut properly. Some bearings have spacers built in.
Your bearing checklist
Use this when buying and when fitting.
- The bearings are made for skating, by a known maker.
- The shields can be removed for cleaning.
- I have spacers and speed rings, or they are built in.
- I am buying eight bearings.
- I have ignored the ABEC number.
- I have a skate tool to fit them.
- I know how to clean them.
The best longboard bearings are not the ones with the biggest number on the box. They are sound, serviceable bearings that you keep clean and dry. Do that, and even a modest set will roll beautifully for years.
Still deciding?
Upgrading a board piece by piece? Our free tools can help with the bigger decisions.
Try the free Size Guide Take the Match Quiz Back to our picks
Product specs and availability were checked in October 2026 and can change. Always confirm the details on the product page before you buy.